Self-guided walking tours in Marseille

Marseille's historic centre sits tight around the Vieux-Port, so most of a first day is on foot. The one serious climb is up to Notre-Dame de la Garde, about 160 metres of ascent on the south side of the port. If you want to skip it, bus 60 runs from the Vieux-Port to the foot of the basilica, and the rest of the centre is mostly flat or gently sloping.

Marseille is at its best in spring and early autumn, when the walking weather is mild. Summer is hot and the Corniche has almost no shade, so save the basilica climb and the sea road for the cooler hours. The mistral wind can arrive in any season and clear the sky overnight. In Noailles the market is a morning affair, so go before lunch.

The RTM runs Marseille's metro, tram and buses. A single ticket costs 1.70 euros and includes 59 minutes of transfers across the network; bought on board a bus it is 2 euros. Bus 60 goes to Notre-Dame de la Garde, and the ferry boat across the Vieux-Port is part of the same network.

A day in Marseille costs roughly 60 to 90 euros per person for one paid museum, a transit ticket or two, lunch, coffee and a sunset drink. The two big paid add-ons are the MuCEM at 11 euros and Cosquer Méditerranée at 19 euros; the Vieille Charité and the Palais Longchamp museums are free.

Most of central Marseille connects on foot: the Vieux-Port, the Panier, the MuCEM waterfront, Noailles, the Cours Julien and the Abbaye Saint-Victor. The Corniche is a short bus ride along the coast, the Palais Longchamp is a metro ride from the port, and the basilica is walkable but steep, with bus 60 as the easy way up.

The Plage des Catalans, below the Pharo gardens, is Marseille's closest city beach and sits at the start of the Corniche walk, so a swim fits easily into the evening leg. The Vallon des Auffes is a working fishing cove, not a swimming spot, so swim at the beach and leave the cove to the boats.

Marseille is a normal big city, and the Old Port and the market streets reward ordinary care. Keep your phone and wallet in a front pocket, close your bag on the metro and in crowds, and do not leave a phone on a café table. At night stay on lit, busy streets around the port. This is the same drill as any busy European port city, not a reason to skip the place.