Palais Longchamp and Its Park

Parc Longchamp entrance on boulevard Jardin Zoologique

Start at the park's Jardin Zoologique gate, the back entrance that opens straight into the gardens behind the palace.

You're at the Jardin Zoologique gate, the quiet entrance that comes into Parc Longchamp from behind. Everything on this walk follows water. In the 1830s Marseille kept running dry, and in 1839 the city began digging the Canal de Marseille to bring Durance water across 85 kilometres of hills and limestone. The water reached this plateau, and the city turned its arrival into the monument you will see in a few minutes.

The park you are standing in grew up around the same project, and it still runs on an old rhythm: the gates open at 7 a.m. and the grounds are free. Head down through the garden toward the palace. You will probably hear the cascade before you see the colonnade.

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Marseille, in the left wing

The left wing is the city's fine arts museum, free for its permanent collection and open Tuesday to Sunday.

You're at the left staircase now, and at the top is the Musée des Beaux-Arts, in the wing it has occupied since 1869. The rooms were planned with the building; the architect worked with the curators from the start. Today the permanent collection is free for everyone. Hours are Tuesday to Sunday, 9 a.m.

to 6 p.m. The museum closes on Mondays except Easter Monday and Pentecost Monday, and on 1 January, 1 May, 1 November, 11 November and 25 December. The ticket desk closes 30 minutes before the museum. Temporary exhibitions cost extra, from 6 to 12 euros depending on the show.

If you are not going in today, step under the colonnade and look back at the cascade from this height. The staircase was built to give you exactly that view.