Must seePhoto by Milky on Wikimedia Commons
Marché Saint-Bruno
Market stalls, cut-price clothes and a church cast in cement.
You're standing in the middle of the Saint-Bruno market, and it's worth knowing how this square runs. From Tuesday to Sunday the stalls are up from seven in the morning until one in the afternoon, and half past one at weekends. On Mondays the stalls vanish, and the art center at the end of this walk is shut on Mondays and Tuesdays. Behind the produce, the same rows carry discount clothes, linen and household goods, which is what makes this feel like a neighborhood market instead of a display.
Now turn to the church. Église Saint-Bruno was paid for by the Carthusian monks and built from 1869 to 1878 to a design by Alphonse Durand. It was the first church built entirely of molded cement, and that changes what you look at: the arches, the columns and the ornament were cast in molds, not carved. Fast and cheap, for a district of factory hands.
If the doors are open, step in: the tourist office points to paintings by the Grenoble artist Jules Flandrin inside. The people who filled this square worked in the metal trades, and it's their quarter you're about to walk.



