Local pickPhoto by Chabe01 on Wikimedia Commons
Cours des Dames
The shaded quay where sailors' wives waited for the fleet.
You're on the Cours des Dames, the wide promenade that runs along the north side of the Vieux-Port. The lime trees here shade a walk that has changed jobs more than once. Until 1806 this strip was a row of port warehouses, sheds where cargo came straight off the ships. The first prefect, Baron Richard, had them pulled down and opened the quay into a public walk, at first called the Cours Richard.
The name that stuck is older in spirit. Women whose husbands were at sea came here to watch for the returning sails, and the course took its name from them. Behind you, the tall houses with their shuttered facades belonged to shipowners, the men who financed the voyages. From their windows they could watch a ship come home.
Now the quay belongs to café terraces, street musicians, and the ferry jetties. At the far end, toward the harbor mouth, the first of the towers is waiting. Walk toward it.





