Local pickPhoto by Sean Gillies on Wikimedia Commons
Marché des Arceaux
Eighty-odd organic stalls under a double arcade of stone arches.
You're at the foot of the Saint-Clément aqueduct on boulevard des Arceaux. On Tuesday and Saturday mornings, between seven and half past one, this road under the arches becomes the city's favorite food market. Up to eighty traders set out their stalls, and most of them are organic growers from the farms around Montpellier. It runs on these two mornings only, so the rest of the week this stretch of boulevard stays quiet.
The fruit, vegetables, cheese, and bread change with the season, and the light falls through the arches onto the tables. Buy your lunch here and take your time over it: the walk itself is short, and the garden and the cathedral further on both open in the early afternoon.
Look up before you move. The double arcade overhead gives the market its name and its shade, and it has sheltered this road for centuries. The water that once ran along the top finished its long climb at the highest point in the city. The arches march east from here toward the hexagonal water tower, and that climb is your route.


