Montpellier: know before you go

Montpellier Méditerranée Airport (MPL) sits at Fréjorgues in Mauguio, about 10 minutes' drive southeast of the centre. Its line 620 shuttle, run by Hérault Transport, links the terminal with Place de l'Europe in Antigone, where tram lines 1 and 4 continue into town; the ride takes about 25 minutes. Saint-Roch is the main station right in the centre, served by tram lines 1 and 2, while high-speed trains stop at Montpellier Sud de France on the outskirts. Taxis wait outside the arrivals hall from the first to the last flight. Train travel between cities is covered in the France country guide.

TaM runs five tram lines and a bus network, and one ticket covers trams and buses with transfers inside its validity window. Buy before you board on the M'Ticket app, at machines in the main tram stations, by scanning the QR code at any stop, or at relay shops; there are no ticket sales on board and you can be fined for boarding without one. Since 21 December 2023 the network has been free for residents of the metropolitan area who hold a Pass gratuité, but visitors and other non-residents still pay. The Écusson is compact and mostly flat, so you will mostly walk; the trams earn their keep for the airport shuttle connection, Antigone, the station, and reaching the beach. The three self-guided walks here, the Écusson, the Peyrou and Arceaux Aqueduct, and Antigone, are all designed to be done on foot.

Cards are accepted widely in Montpellier, but a few small market stalls and café counters prefer cash or set a card minimum, so keep some change for the markets. A tourist tax, the taxe de séjour, is added per adult per night to your accommodation bill and rises with the star rating; the metropolis runs a simulator to check the exact rate for your stay. On the culture side, the Pavillon Populaire is free every day it opens, and Musée Fabre's permanent collection is free on the first Sunday of the month.

Montpellier is a busy university city and is generally safe to walk, including after dark in the centre. Keep an eye on phones and wallets around Place de la Comédie, on crowded trams, at café terraces and at the markets, and be a little more alert around Saint-Roch station late at night. There is no city-specific emergency number to learn; use France's standard emergency numbers, which the France country guide lists.

Tap water in Montpellier is safe to drink, and refilling a bottle at a fountain or café is the sensible move in summer heat. Pharmacies, marked with a green cross, are easy to find and several central ones stay open late; the university hospital handles anything serious. For medical emergencies, use the national emergency numbers covered in the France guide.

French is the everyday language of Montpellier, and English is widely spoken in hotels, restaurants and at the tourist office, though less so in small shops and at market stalls. Occitan appears on some signs and street names, a reminder of the region's roots. Say bonjour when you walk into a shop or café and merci when you leave; a little French effort is appreciated.

Montpellier's centre is flat, but the Écusson's oldest lanes are cobbled, narrow and sometimes stepped, which makes wheels slow going; the newer Antigone axis, the Esplanade and the tram network are step-free and much easier. Trams and buses are low-floor with level boarding at main stops. The Promenade du Peyrou and the Esplanade are smooth for strollers, and the tourist office can advise on specific access needs.

Monday is the quiet day in Montpellier. Musée Fabre, the Pavillon Populaire and the Jardin des Plantes all close on Mondays, and Église Saint-Roch opens only in the afternoon. The Jardin des Plantes never opens in the morning: it runs from midday to 20:00 in June through September and to 18:00 in October through May, and entry is free. Cathédrale Saint-Pierre is free Monday to Saturday, 10:30 to 12:00 and 14:30 to 18:00. French national holidays are covered in the France country guide.

Most of Montpellier needs no advance booking, but a few things are worth sorting before you arrive. The Arc de Triomphe rooftop is only reachable on a booked tourist-office climb of about 90 steps, priced at €5. Big temporary shows at Musée Fabre and any guided visits are the other things to reserve. For eating, Halles Castellane is open daily, while the Marché des Arceaux under the aqueduct runs only Tuesday and Saturday mornings from 07:00 to 13:30. Three museums are closed and not worth a detour: the Musée Atger is closed indefinitely, the Musée du Vieux Montpellier is closed until its planned 2028 reopening, and the crypt of Notre-Dame-des-Tables beneath Place Jean Jaurès is closed after flooding.