Must seePhoto by Pymouss on Wikimedia Commons
La Criée, marché central
Odorico mosaic fronton above stalls that still sell Breton produce.
Two brothers from Friuli, Isidore and Vincent Odorico, founded their mosaic firm in Rennes in 1882, after working in Paris on the Opéra Garnier, and their tile still covers the surfaces of this city. Start by looking up.
Above the north wing of the central market, the fronton carries a mosaic laid in the 1920s. The words criée municipale are set in geometric blue letters, and beneath them run stylised waves on a ground that shifts from green to yellow.
The halls are the work of Emmanuel Le Ray, the city architect who also designed the Saint-Georges pool. The first stalls opened on 29 April 1923, and the wholesale wing took until 1926 to finish; the room where prices were called out is an art centre today. Fish set the tone of the whole building, which is why the south hall carries the heaviest ornament.
Then go inside. Twenty-eight traders work under the glass here, selling cheese, fish, vegetables and Breton specialities, and this is where you buy lunch.


