Photo by Jonatan Moerman on Unsplash
Sint-Baafskathedraal
Van Eyck's altarpiece in its own chapel, visitor centre included.
You're standing on Sint-Baafsplein with two of Ghent's three towers overhead: the cathedral behind you and the belfry a few steps off. Different kinds of power raised them, and this walk is really about the money that paid for both.
Inside, in the Sacraments chapel, hangs the painting that made the city's name. Hubert van Eyck began it, Jan finished it, and it went up here on 6 May 1432 in the chapel of Joos Vijd and Elisabeth Borluut, the two leading citizens who commissioned it. The quatrain on the frame names them, and which brother painted what is still argued over. There are twenty panels. The lower register, with the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb at its centre, is in front of you, and restoration uncovered the original Lamb's face with its huge frontal eyes. Seven panels from the upper register are being treated across town at the Museum of Fine Arts, and high-resolution photographs hang in their place. The visitor centre has augmented-reality glasses that put the whole altarpiece back together.
Before it was a cathedral, this was Sint-Janskerk, the parish church of Ghent's first harbour.




